Hamedan, Kermanshah, Kurdistan, and Ilam
Hamedan Province :
Among all the cities of Iran, which each has an individual ancient precedence , Hamadan has a special place. Some historians believe that Hamadan's construction dates back to 3000 B.C. and according to an inscription from the first Assyrien king , it is attributed to 1100B.C.
The Central Square in Hamadan was designed by a German engineer in 1307 Solar year. (1982 A.D.) which divided the city into sMeix main avenues , and is considered as the main main part of the city.
Hamadan city with the height of 3,580 m. is located on the slopes of Alvand mountain , so it is very cold in winter. According to 1992 cencus Hamadan has a population of 374,541.
About Alisadr Cave in Hamedan province
The Alisadr cave-lake, 120 km to the north-west of Hamadan near a village by this same name and at the foothill of Su-Bashi, is one of the strangest natural sights in Iran, in fact, the latter is an endless network of caves full of clear water.
The Alisadr cave-lake was discovered in the first half of 70s, and is now being visited by waves of local and foreign tourists. In some sections the caves are more than 100 meters wide.
In some sections the cave ceiling,is more than 10 meters high.
This cave is located 80 kilometers northwest of Hamadan, in the Subashi mountains close to Ali Sadr village and is one of the most beautiful natural features in the world.
This cave is composed of large and small spiral channels which are linked to one another.
In some sections the cave is 100 meters wide and 10 meters high.
Ali Sadr cave was discovered during the fourth and fifth centuries and today lots of tourists visist it in the summer.
About Gonbad-e Alavian in Hamedan province
The Gunbad-e-Alavian was probably built during the second half of the 12th century A.D. when Hamedan was a major Seljuk capital. It is generally believed to be the mausoleum of the powerful Alavian family who continued to rule Hamedan long after the Seljuks. The interior walls of the main chamber explode with naturalistic adornments - twining vines, leaves and flowers are carved out of pale stucco.
This lush decoration contrasts sharply with the bleakness of the subterranean crypt where several of the Alavian leaders have been buried. The original dome has fallen into ruin. The Gonbad-e-Alavian was probably built during the second half of the twelfth century A.D.
When Hamedan was a major seljuq capital. it is generally believed to be the mausoleum of the owerful Alaviyyan family who continued to rule Hamedan long after the Seljuqs. the interior walls of the main chamber explode with naturalistic adornments - twining vies, leaves and flowers are carved out of pale stucco. This lush decoration contrasts sharply with the bleakness of the subterranean crypt where several of the Alavian leaders have been buried. The original dome has fallen into ruin.
About Avicenna in Hamedan province
The mausoleum of Ibn Sina (Avicenna), hamedan, was built in 1952 above the tomb of one of Iran`s greatest philosophers and scholars, known to the West as Avicenna.
Born near Bokhara about the year A.D. 980, he lived a full and dangerous life, serving a variety of rival princes as a physician and vazier, dying at the age of 57 in Hamedan.
His Canon, the first systematic work of medical science, was taught in European universities until the eighteenth century, and his contribitions to philosophy, logic, mathematics, optics and pharmaceutics make him one of the most prolific and original minds of all times.
Modern Hamedan is presumed to be built on the site of Ecbatana, a Median capital, the capture of which in 550 BC by Cyrus the Great marks the foundation of the Persian Empire. The mausoleum of Avicenna is built in the style of the Gunbad-i-Qabus, a famous eleventh century funerary tower in north-east Iran.
The mausoleum of Avicenna is an imitation of the oldest historic buiding of the Islamic period namely the Ghabus Gonbad which is also contemporary to Avicenna major differnces between these two building however are only two namely the size of the mausoleum of Avicenna which is half in size compared to that of Ghabus Gonbad and this is mainly because of the restricted space allocated to this purpose and the other differnce lies in the gap between the buttresses in Avicenna mausoleum whereas in the Ghabus Gonbad building there is no access to outside or inside the tower except for the entrance and a small hole in the bottom of the dome. This mausoleum has been constructed on twelve tall cement foundations.
The grave of Sheikhol Raeis Avicenna has been placed in the center of the 12 foundations of the tower and next to him is the grave of Sheik Abu Saeid Dakhdook who was Avicenna`s friend and host. Both graves have been covered with a flat marble stone with an inscription in nine lines.
The inscription suggests 428 A.H. as the date when it was written. The Avicenna museum, which is situated inside the complex, includes ancient objects, anthropology section and books written by Avicenna. The museum is open to public and embraces such objects as bronze statues belonging to the first millenium B.C., coins, containers, marbles and silver objects belonging to the Sasanids era, books, superb carpets, etc.
On the gigantic rocks of Alvand mountain, the two Achaemenid kings namely Darius the first and Xerxes (522 - 484 B.C.) have described their conquests in an inscription carved in the stone asking for help from Ahuramazda.
The later generations who could not read the cuneiform alphabets of the ancient Persian, Elamite and Babilian scripts thought it was the guide to an uncovered treasury.
Ganj Nameh is located five kilometers from southwestern Hamadan (the ancient Ecbatana) which served as the capital of he Medes and Achaemenids, in a region called Abbas Abad.
There are two plate inscriptions, one on the right side embracing the name of Xerxes and the one on the left embracing the name of Darius the Great.
The translation of the text of the right side plate attributed to Xerxes is as follows : (The mighty lord is Ahuramazda, the god of gods, who created this land, the sky and the people, the same god who brought people happiness, who appointed Xerxes as king, the unique king of kings, the unique ruler of the rulers, I am Xerxes, the great king, king of kings, king of multinational countries, king of this large land, the son of Darius the Achaemenid.)
This translation corresponds with part of the inscription attributed to Xerxes at the main entrance of Persepolis and the other plate inscription of Ganj Nameh attributed to Darius the first, the father of Xerxes, had the same sentences with the difference that instead of Xerxes it has the name of Darius.
These two plates too, similar to the majority of inscriptions by the Achaemenid kings include greetings to Ahuramazda and the fathers and forefathers of these kings.
The city of Hamedan, the founding of which dates back to the time of the Medes (700 BC) holds several historical sites, the most important of which are inscriptions of Gangenameh, Shir Sangi, the Shrine of Esther and Mordecai, Alavian dome, Bu-Ali Sina (Avicenna) ane Baba Taher Mausoleums. In the suburbs of Hamedan there are many natural eye-catching sites including the famous caves of Ali-Sadr, Ghaleh Joogh, and Hizadj.
One of the interesting sites in Hamedan is the Lalejin Village. This village is the center of the pottery and ceramics industry, where many workshops are active, producing diverse earthenware products in different designs and colors.
Kermanshah Province :
In Iranian tales, they attribute Kermanshahan to Tahmurath period (Tahmures-e-Divband one of Pishdadian kings), but the main structure of the city to Bahram IV of Sasanid period in 4th century A.D.
Considering this city not being very old, but there are so many ancient monuments around it. Kermanshahan was a place of entertainment for Sasanid kings, especially Khosrow Parviz, who built a beautiful palace there. The famous story of Shirin and Farhad is from Khosrow Parviz period.
Kermanshahan Province is one of Iraq's neighbours. Before the forced war of Iraq against Iran many passengers and pilgrims could travel from Tehran, Hamadan and Kermanshah to Karabla. This route had made a good trade and economic relation between these two countries.
In 1992, the population of this province was 1,639,300 of whom the most were Kurds& Lors and used to speak in Kemanshahi accent which is of Kurdish dialect.
Kermanshahan Province with 15 cities has an area of 23,667 sq. Kms. The climate is moderate and mountainous. Zagros heights in this province are in a current of the western humid and Mediterranean climate which make it cold and snowy in winter and moderate in summer.
About Anahita Temple in Kermanshah province
This temple belongs to the Seleucides (313 - 64 BC - ) and has been built in Kangavar city. The architectural structure of this temple is a combination of the Greek and Persian styles and as its name suggests is related to Anahita, the daughter of Din Mehr, who enjoyed a very high status with the ancient Iranians.
The temple is as old as 200 B.C. Today houses and streets have been built on the surface of this monument and only part of the temple has remained intact because it neighbors Imamzadeh mosque.
About Bisotoun in Kermanshah province
On the rocks of the famous Bistun mountain, about 50 meters above the ground, there are some pictures and inscriptions from Darius the Achaemenid (559 - 330 BC), which still remain intact.
Darius, the Achaemenid issued an order in 522 BC in the consequence of a series of clashes and wars, according to which the details of his conquests and administration had to be left in trust on the rocks.
The Bistun inscription comes in three prevalent languages of the time namely Persian, Elamite and Babylonian. In this demonstration, Darius the Achaemenid stands before 9 captives whose hands have been cuffed placing his left foot on the chest of Keommana who is lying on the ground with a sword in his hand.
About Tagh-e Bostan in Kermanshah province
Only nine kilometers from Kermanshah city, there is Tagh-e-Bostan village with signs left in it from the Sassanid period (266 - 651 AD). One such sign is the coronation of the Sassanid kings which has been demonstrated on the rocks.
On the left side of the reception of Artaxerxes the second`s coronation, there exist two vaults, a smaller one and a bigger one which belong to the Sassanids. The first vault which is the small one has been carved in the mountain during the reign of Shapur and includes two relief sculptures and two inscriptions in the Sassanid Pahlavi.
According to the inscriptions the two pictures belong to Shapur the second.
The smaller vault is of greater significance since the two inspcriptions have remained intact from events and act as introductions to the demonstrations of the vault.The bigger vault which contains more demonstrations and delicate carvings, has attracted the attention of historians.
The mouth of the bigger vault is 7.4 meters; it is 7.17 meters deep and 9 meters high. This bigger vault belongs to the era of Khosrow the second known as Parviz.
Kermanshah province, with cities like Kermanshah, Ghasr-e-Shirin, Paveh, Songhor, Islam-Abad, and Krend, is one of the most ancient centers of Iranian civilization. The historical monuments of Tagh-Bostan, Bisotoon, and Moagen-ol-molk mourning place in Kermanshah; the famous Anahita Temple in Kangavar; and historical vestiges in Ghasr-e-Shirin and Sare' Pole' Zahab are worth seeing. In the Bisotoon, Tagh-e-Bostan and Dalahoo (Rijab) regions, there exist large calcareous springs.In Rijab (Dalahoo), a thermal spring has created many calcareous ponds, which have a spectacular landscape.
Kordestan Province :
The Kurds are Iranian people who live mainly at the junction of more or less laicised Turkey, Shie Iran, Arab Sunni Iraq and North Syria, and the former soviet Transcaucasia. The name Land of the Kurds seems to date from the time of the Seljuk Sultan Sanjar.
The Kurds played an important part in the history of the Near East. Several dynasties, such as the Marwanids of Diyarbakr, the Ayyubids, the Shaddadids and probably the Safavids, as well as prominent personalities, were of Kurdish origin.
Sanandaj city in Kordestan province
Sanandaj as the center of Kordestan Province, Sanandaj is located at longitude 46-59' E., latitude 35-19' N. and 1480 meters above the sea level. The county of Sanandaj, whose center is the town of Sanandaj, consists of two districts--Markazi and Kalatarzan--nine villages and one town. In 1636 AD, during the rule of Shah Safi, Sanandaj was chosen the center of Kordestan by Solayman Khan. Sanandaj had several buildings, bazaars and mosques, and was the booming trade center of Kordestan.
One of the major characteristics of Sanandaj is the application of local architecture in using local materials, brick, foundation, outer facade and interior design such as sash windows and stuccos. Sanandaj has a pleasant weather in spring and summer. The average annual temperature stands at 13.3 degrees centigrade. The minimum temperature drops to 31 degrees centigrade below zero in the cold season. The average annual rainfall totals 473 millimeters with the freezing season lasting for 104 days.
According to the 1996 census, Sanandaj has a population of 359,990. The former censuses in 1956, 1966, 1976 and 1986 put the population of Sanandaj at 40,641; 54,578; 95,872 and 204,537 respectively. As the figures indicate in recent years, the population has had a sustained growth. The main handicrafts of Sanandaj are: fine wooden decorations, hand-knitted fabrics, engravings on wood, local jewellery, embroidery, pottery, mat, giveh (light cotton summer shoes), felt and leather garment. Fine wooden decorations are very common in Sanandaj, and are used in making cigarette cases, candy vessel, women's bag, cosmetics box, tray, plate, dried nuts vessel, album cover and backgammon board.
Kurdistan Province is mostly mountainous land, with its cities of Sanandadj, Saghez, Bijar, Marivan, Ghorveh, and Baneh, hold many worth seeing and memorable sites among which Jame' Mosque, Sanandadj Museum, Zivieh, and Kaftoo caves close to Saghez can be pointed out.
Kurdistan is well-known for its handicrafts such as coarse carpet, wooden and turnery products, needlework, crocheting, and spangling clothes, which are of high demand.
Ilam Province :
Ilam Province is located in western Iran, between the latitudes 31-58' and 34-15' N. and longitudes 45-24' and 48-10' E. It is bounded on the north by Kermanshah Province, on the south by Khuzistan Province, on the east by Lorestan Province and Khuzistan Province, and on the west by Iraq .
Its area is 19,086 square kilometers. According to 1995 divisions, Ilam Province has 7 counties- Ilam, Dareh Shahr, Abdanan, Dehloran, Shirvan, Cherdaval and Mehran -15 towns and 36 villages. Its center is Ilam.
The ancient land of Ilam (Elam), is a very old territory. The city of Ilam, and other cities of Ilam Province like Mehran and Dehloran, due to historical links with the ancient land of Mesopotamia (between two rivers of Tigris and Euphrates), hold interesting monuments, such as the remnants of the old cities in the valley of Dehloran city and Sarab Galan Shirvan, which relate to Sassanid period. The Bahram Choobin Bridge, Shirin and Farhad Arch, Choobin Mountain passes, and four arches belonging to the Sassanid time are amongst other monuments of this region.
Tehran, Ray and Qum
Tehran Province :
The modern powerhouse of the government and its engineers, Tehran (meaning warm slope) was originally a village on the suburb of Ray, Iranian capital until Mongol invasion of the country in 1220 AD, when it population moved to the present site of Tehran.
Actually, very little is known of the origin and early history of Tehran.
For those who have a bit more time in Tehran, there are several interesting visits that can be made in the western, eastern, and southern suburbs.
About Aladdin Tomb Tower in Tehran province
Built during the Mongol period, the exterior is formed of 32 right-angled flanges.
Just below the conical roofs is an inscription and decorative elements in blue faience.
The vertical joints between the bricks forming the flanges are decorated with plaster brick plugs.
The Mausoleum of Imamzadeh Ja`far
The mausoleum of Imamzadeh Ja`far, a descendent of Imam Musa al-Kazim, consists of a pleasant courtyard, an ivan, a Harem, and a huge double dome.
The earlier date to be found in the building, is the one carved upon the tomb-cage.
At the end of the inscription the date A.H. 994(A.D. 1585), can be seen.
Some parts of the inscription of the Harem are in Thulth script, and it ends with the name of Shah Tahmasb, the Safavid King, and the date A.H. 956 (A.D. 1549).
In the upper part of the ivan, some verses in praise of Fath Ali Shah Qajar have been produced in white Nasta`liq script set on azure unbaked tiles. The concluding distich containing the date of the latest repairs of the edifice, i.e., A.H. 1227 (A.D. 1812), in Abjad code.
About Amir Kabir Dam in Tehran province
The settlement in 1954 of the costly Anglo-Iranian oil dispute resulted in an increase in Iran`s oil revenues. Under the second Seven Year Plan, launched in 1955, work was begun on three dams at Dez, Karaj and Manjil, designed to provide water and electric power over wide areas.
The 590 ft. high, double-curvature arch dam near Karaj is about 40 miles north-west of Tehran on the road to Chalus.
Built by American consultants and contractors, it was opened in October 1961, and supplies electric power (85,000 kw. capacity) and industrial and drinking water for Tehran, previously dependent on Qanats and the water cart for this vital necessity.
Amir Kabir, after whom the dam is named, was Nasser ol-Din Shah`s reformist Grand Vizier, murdered in the royal gardens at Fin in 1852.
About Azadi Tower in Tehran province
This tower which represents the city of Tehran is part of Azadi cultural complex which is located in Tehran`s Azadi square in an area of some 5 hectares.
This complex is composed of the following sections; The 50 meter high Azadi tower, which forms the main part of the museum and its architecture, is a combination of Islamic and Sassanid architecture style. The audio - video hall of the complex which has been designed based on Iran`s geographical map displays the regional characteristics of Iran in so far as cultural, life style, religious and historical monuments are concerned.
A mechanical conveyer allows the visitors to visit the hall in total comfort. Some art galleries and halls have been allocated to temporary fairs and exhibitions.
The Diorama hall with 12 chambers puts to display activities in agriculture, handicrafts, modern industry, etc. A cinema, library and sideline services complement the activities of this complex.
About Sheikh Abdol Hussein Mosque in Tehran province
The Madrasa and the Mosque are among the structure dating from the reign of Nasir al_din Shah Qajar.
The only remaining part of the old building of the mosque, in its original state, is its enamelled brick inscription, which is to be found on the portal. It The portal bears also the date A.H. 1363 (A.D. 1943 approximately), which is the date of the reparation of the structure.
As a result of fundamental repairs amde in the mosque and in its prayer hall, the, monument has taken a new appearance bearing n The mausoleumof Shaykh Abdol Hussein built at the time of the construction of itsadjoining mosque, has, to a large extent, retained its original style.
It is a four-ivan structure and consists of a portal, avestubule, a courtyard, several two-stor Inside its courtyard which is thick with trees, and in the upper ivans there remain five bands of plaster stalactites, remarkable in their kind.
Also, the mosaic tileworks in some of the cornerpieces of the inner false arches, which dat from the time The portal of the Madrasa and its side-rooms are ancient and are decorated with plaster stalctites and mosaic tiles.
The wooden door of the Madrasa, which bears relief engravings and an inscription in Nasta`liq script, counts among the fine specimens.
About Tehran Zoo in Tehran province
The Tehran zoo of Tehran was in a an off-street opposite the Park-e Mellat to the north of Vanak Square. However, because of being surrounded blocks, the city authorities decided to move it to a lush green area (altogether 5 hectare in Eram Park at the beginning of Tehran-Karaj Highway (km 4).
The new Zoo has been a visited bu more than 2,000 visitor each day since 1992. Inside the Park, there several restaurants and children`s playing and recreational facilities. More than 150 species of herbivorous and carnivorous animals and indigenous birds are kept here.
About Bahman Cultural Center in Tehran province
Located in the southernmost part of Tehran, the Bahman Cultural Center occupies a vast area that used to be the city`s old slaughterhouse just seven years ago.
Considered to be the most deprived area of Tehran. Its southern part was in need of help, especially with cultural overtones. In this cultural center concerts, religious plays accompanied by hymns, and other rituals are performed. It is open on all days and nights of the week and serves as a gathering place for the youth of southern Tehran.
The young people can use the center for activities such as sports, various arts fields, wholesale entertainment, etc. The center includes the following sections: Chahar Bagh (four Gardens), center for Children`s Drawings, chess club, visual Arts Gallery, Charlie Chaplin Terrace-Movie House, and a Theater.
The Charlie Chaplin Terrace-Movie House, with an area of 1,450 Sq. m to house 450 people, has a mobile ceiling which can be opened by a push button in three minutes.
A comprehensive description of Tehran may not end like this, but we don`t intend to provide you with the opportunity of just sitting and reading about Tehran. The town is a really modern metropolitan with thousands of interesting places about hich you will certainly discover after the first few days of your stay.
Located in the southernmost part of Tehran, the Bahman Cultural Center occupies a vast area that used to be the city`s old slaughterhouse just few years ago.
Considered to be the most deprived area of Tehran, its southern part is in need of help, especially with cultural overtones.
In this cultural center, concert, religious plays accompanied by hymns, and other rituals are performed. It is open on all days and nights of the week and serves as a gathering place for the youth of southern Tehran.
The young people can use the center for activities such as sports, various art fields, wholesale entertainment, etc. The center includes the following sections:
Chahar Bagh (Four Gardens), center for Children`s Drawings, Chess Club, Visual Arts Gallery, Charlie Chaplain terrace-Movie House, and a theater.
The Charlie Chaplain Terrace-Movie House, with an area of 1,450 sq. m to house 450 people, has a mobile ceiling, which can be opened by a push button in three minutes.
About Tehran Bazaar in Tehran province
Tehran is the greatest of the Iranian markets. Squat and once black in the heart of the city, like a covered railway station, stand the bazaars in the southern part of Tehran.
These bazaars deserve a half-day stroll. Down there you may still smell the spices and the sheepskins, and hear the rich trump of unrolling carpets, unpeeled from the stack like pages of a manuscript. All the faces of Persia may be seen in those arcades:
Semite or Mongol, fair or swarthy, swathed in fringed turbans or clamped upon by dowdy trilbies.
It is an imperial sort of palace: Darius would have liked it.
As well as being one of the biggest of all eastern bazaars, that of Tehran is also among the newest. The bazaar was a city within the city. For many years, it was the focal point of the town.
Everything happened there, not only trading, but also social relations, marriage and politics.
It is to be regretted that the bazaar is gradually being abandoned by the more prosperous merchants, who have moved to the northern avenues of the new city, built after the bazaar.
Bazaar never closes, expect for religious festivals, but it is seen at its most bustling at midday, or between 5 and 7 in the evening. Haggle furiously here for anything you like:
Carpets, tribal jewelry, leather, silks, copper, gold.
Two warning: go slowly, since the paths are usually watered to prevent dust, but slippery; and keep closely to the right, well away from the center of the passageway to avoid the heavily-laden porters who make their way at top speed through the crowd.
Your tour of the Tehran`s 10-km long covered bazaar will begin at Sabzeh Maidan (Green Square). Actually, entrance to bazaar is through several gates, closed and manned by security personnel at nights.
The first section, on the east, is devoted to luxury articles, especially watches and jewelry. Beyond these are the carpet dealers.
Turn off at right angle to the main street from time to time to enjoy the relative peace of a timcheh or depot in the from of a rectangular courtyard open to the sky, where fountains or small pools alleviate the suffocatingly dry heat of a Tehrani summer afternoon.
About Imamzadeh Chizar in Tehran province
This mausoleum is located on the western foot of the hill adjacent to and overlooking the old Chizar hamlet, is simple and without any decorations. Neither the Jafari transenna not its simple reliquary can be considered historic monuments or artifacts.
The old tombstones and condition of the mausoleum indicates that it must have had an older building utilized as a bode and seclusion quarter for dervishes.
The mausoleum has been ascribed to Ali Akbar; Imam Zayn al-Abedin`s son.
About Divan Khaneh in Tehran province
Karim Khan Zand intended making Tehran his capital. In the year A.D. 1758, he ordered the erection of a number of buildings within the Arg, including a Haram-Khaneh and Khalvat-Khaneh. In A.D. 1759 he ordered the building of a private palace and a Divan Khaneh within the confines of the Arg.
The style was to be Safavid. This was achieved, but unfortunately, because of the alterations made in later periods, we have little knowledge. What is obvious is that the building known as the Khalvat Khaneh is one of these buildings, though greatly altered. Another indication is a drawing by Flandin, of one of the rooms of Karim Khan`s Divan Khaneh. The building was still standing in A.D. 1848.
The Private Life of Nasser al-Din Shah History of the Arg Buildings.